Judy’s 5th Kosher China- Eastern Tour, May 2015

COMPLETELY CERTIFIED KOSHER FOOD THROUGHOUT! Kashrut of Chabad China.

Tour dates: MAY 10-22, 2015

Saturday night, May 9, leave home for Beijing, China.

Sunday, May 10, Arrival and tour guided by friendly  professional guide who is determined to leave not one question unanswered, while giving you a flavor of Beijing life as the locals live it. Tour the hutongs, famous alleys inhabited traditionally by Beijingers, but becoming extinct.  Accommodations at stately Rosedale Hotel, located across the street from beautiful  Si’de park with lily ponds and walking paths, in the classy neighborhood of Chaoyang, boasting foreign embassies, night clubs, and more importantly for us, the beautiful Chabad synagogue and restaurant which we will take advantage of.

Monday, May 11, Tiananmen  Square, the Chinese Parliament and government buildings. See both the palaces and servants’ hovels at the Forbidden City and let your imagination wonder what it was like in the year 500! The imperial gardens here are famous for their expansive size, grandeur and stateliness and epitomize the genre throughout China. Temple of Heaven, a World Heritage site; stand where the emperor used to greet the crowds. Enjoy your first bit of shopping at the world famous Hongqiao Pearl Market – luggage, purses, clothing electronics, jewelry and a lot of great knockoffs.

Tuesday, May 12,  Great Wall at Mutianyu. See Mongolia in the distance and imagine the (unsuccessful) efforts to breech the Wall. The views here are spectacular. Fly late afternoon to Xi’an, with a boxed meal from Chabad on the go.

View on a beautiful day from one of the Great Wall ramparts.

Aided by your guide, (or not) chat with the workmen constantly improving and repairing the Wall.

Wednesday, May 13, see famous Terracotta Soldiers, depicting the army of the first Emperor of China from the 3rd century ( http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/shaanxi/xian/terra_cotta_army/ )  and Tomb of Emperor Jingdi.  There are 3rd century BC figures, including 8000 sculpted warriors, 130 chariots and over 700 horses, discovered in 1974 by local farmers. A great day! Evening flight to Guilin.

Get the full description of how these larger than life clay figures were fired to be stronger than metal.

Tuesday, May 12,You will be hearing a lot about rice farming this week. With our experienced guide , have a stimulating and fun climb up scenic rice terraces, through rice tribal farming village.   You can be carried if you want!   See a fun musical show depicting ancient and modern day village life.  Explore famously beautiful Guilin lake area , considered the “Beauty Spot” honeymoon site of China, where we will be staying, in the evening. Gorgeous scenes, luxury hotel room on the lake. See 3rd photo  below of what you will see as you walk through the charming gardens at night.

All we did was say “Deb, can you turn around?” and snapped this fabulous photo – you can be in it too!

Walk amongst the villagers with their daily transactions as you ascend the rice terraces.  Below: lake next to our hotel, for your evening stroll.

Wednesday, May 13, Short bus ride to Yangshuo,the “big town” surrounding the rice farming villages which are almost like moshavim.  Settle in and enjoy a guided tour of Yangshuo market which precedes wonderful kosher cooking class in pastoral setting, a highlight of your trip. Great dinner you will cook yourselves.

Judy’s China Tours cooking class in Yangshuo countryside, 2012.

Thursday, May 14, Together with the working Chinese farmers and guided by Fengping, ride an early morning moped out to Moon Hill, her childhood playground, and see water buffalo and their masters working the paddies. Short climb up the karst peak rising sharply out of the ground to a fabulous view at the top. Feel the wind in your hair as you pass stunning mountains to ancient Jiuxian village, the way Yangshuo used to be a hundred years ago. 

Show this to the grandchildren! Happy traveler, 2012.

Karen and Fengping on our scooter ride near Moon Hill, 2013.

Friday, May 15, Local bus, a unique experience with Fengping, to Bamboo boat  on the Li River, passing water buffalo, birds fishing ala Ping the Duckling – to Fuli village where generations of families paint famous scenes on rice paper scrolls or fans. Kabbalat Shabbat in Yangshuo.

Shabbat, May 16, Yangshuo, you will really love getting to know this town, Short hike up to beautiful lookout from a karst mountain.  Saturday night, plenty of fabulous shopping.

Note the bar above which is lifted with both ends being carried by the seller. Baisa market, you’ll be there.

Sunday, May 17,   Take the local inter-village bus to  Baisa farmers’ market.  Flight to Shanghai.  Meet your fabulous, warm and knowledgeable guide, Liang Pingan, preofessor of history and Israel studies at Shanghai University.  Acupressure massage for weary foot travelers in a swanky historical Astor hotel. Glamorous night cruise with view of the Bund.

Monday, May 18,Tour beautiful nearby Hongzhou and its world famous beauty spot West Lake area, biking and strolling. Famous Song Dynasty poet Su Dongpo  compared the West Lake area to Xi Zi, the most beautiful woman in ancient China. These poetic sentiments leave one in no doubt of the glory of the scenery that inspired them – featuring pagodas, retreats, inlets and hills.

Tuesday, May 19, Shanghai Hongkew WWII Jewish neighborhood,  which our guide Liang has worked to landmark.  Jewish Museum guided by  Liang, who is docent of the museum  and the possessor of great historical knowledge. Mansions of  19th and 20th century Iraqi Jewish philanthropists whose financial prowess began  modern-day Shanghai. Free time near hotel.  Chinese acrobatics show.

Beautiful nook on West Lake, Hongzhou outside Shanghai.

Wednesday, May 20,  Tour beautiful Yu Gardens, as a beginning of your understanding of the history of feng shui and  the Chinese garden; these gardens are the epitome of landscaping  art for the private garden, with their delicacy, and intimate style that was not bound by the imperial court.   Tour fabulous model silk factory – see the worms weaving silk – and its breathtaking shop.

Thursday, May 21, See the world famous Bund from up close and hear more of the financial history of Shanghai,  Tour French concession. Enjoy shopping at the famous Shanghai knockoff market with great deals.  Flight home.

PRICE: $3560 per person double occupancy, single supplement $550. Price includes

*4 star hotel accommodation

 

* all Kosher meals

* 3 internal flights

 

* top guides at all times

* bus rides,  boat rides

* all entrance fees

*  service procuring Chinese visa

Does NOT include: Flight to and from point of origin to China, visa application fee (about NIS 150 in Israel).  Flight from Israel should be $900-$1400, the sooner booked, the better.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKING, WRITE TO judyrefuah@gmail.com or call 052 434 6709.  From the US, call  Sun.-Thurs. until 3 pm 847 943 2020.  (I am 8 hours ahead of CST).

For visa requirements, google location of Chinese embassy near you.  See http://www.china-embassy.org/eng/hzqz/zgqz/t84246.htm.

Scroll up for registration. Hope to see you there!

From the US: 847 943 2020, or 052 434 6709 in Israel – judyrefuah@gmail.com

 Go here for TESTIMONIALS of this once in a lifetime experience: https://judyrefuah.wordpress.com/2013/09/08/a-few-testimonials-judys-trips-to-china/.

 To see photos of past trips, go to judyrefuah.wordpress.com and keep scrolling down; there are at least 5 photo blogs.  Or one nice sample is https://judyrefuah.wordpress.com/2013/07/09/lets-continue-our-tour-photos-of-lijiang/

 Hear a podcast with me about Chinese Medicine and China: http://www.pstein.com/touring-in-china/

Judy’s 5th Kosher China Western Tour 2015

COMPLETELY CERTIFIED KOSHER FOOD THROUGHOUT!

Take your teenagers on this inspirational tour of the ancient Forbidden City, home of Emperors.

• Kosher hotel breakfast.
• Daily hot kosher meals.
• Chabad meals in 2 cities.
• Comfortable,  very clean, luxurious and quaint hotel accommodations,
• Chinese flights are safe and modern, often taking off early!
• Professional, experienced and friendly guides catering to all questions and comforts.

*** Western China, May 10-22, 12 days.   12 days of fun and totally new experiences to stimulate intellect, imagination and body.  (see also ***Eastern China Tour, May 10-22, 12 days go to                      . )

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKING, WRITE TO judyrefuah@gmail.com or call 052 434 6709.  From the US, call  Sun.-Thurs. until 3 pm 847 943 2020.  (I am 8 hours ahead of CST).

Saturday night, May 9, leave home for Beijing, China.

Sunday, May 10, Arrival and tour guided by friendly professional guide who is determined to leave not one question unanswered, while giving you a flavor of Beijing life as the locals live it. Tour the hutongs, Beijingers’ traditional alleyway homes. Accommodations at stately Rosedale Hotel, located across the street from beautiful  Si’de park with lily ponds and walking paths, in the classy neighborhood of Chaoyang, boasting foreign embassies, night clubs, and more importantly for us, the beautiful Chabad synagogue and restaurant which we will take advantage of.

Monday, May 11, Tiananmen  Square, the Chinese Parliament and government buildings. See both the palaces and servants’ hovels at the Forbidden City and let your imagination wonder what it was like in the year 500! The imperial gardens here are famous for their expansive size, grandeur and stateliness and epitomize the genre throughout China. See the famous Temple of Heaven, a World Heritage Site, where the emperors used to greet the people.

Tuesday, May 12,  Great Wall at Mutianyu. See Mongolia in the distance and imagine the (unsuccessful) efforts to breech the Wall. The views here are spectacular. Fly late afternoon to Xi’an, with a boxed meal from Chabad on the go.

Aided by your guide, (or not) chat with the workmen constantly improving and repairing the Wall.

Wednesday, May 13, see famous Terracotta Soldiers, depicting the army of the first Emperor of China from the 3rd century,  and Tomb of Emperor Jingdi.  There are 3rd century BC figures, including 8000 sculpted warriors, 130 chariots and over 700 horses, discovered in 1974 by local farmers. A great day! Evening flight to Lijiang. charming old city in what was Tibet until 1959. A whole new set of sights and smells.

Thursday, May 14, Awaken to the sound of Naxi harp music and enjoy a great breakfast in the stone courtyard with ancient Chinese lacquered furniture. Enjoy the completely different and wonderfully scenic ambience of our Zen courtyard hotel in the Old Town, owned and operated by our beautiful professional friend He Yumei, a young Naxi generation entrepreneur who has decorated her hotel with antiques from her culture.  Stand on the veranda outside your room and see the entire town lit up – amazingly gorgeous!   Today, see surrounding villages of the Bai ethnic tribe that no tourists go to: Silk-making village of Xin Tui, see the peasants and how they live, the more wealthy village whose livelihood is silver – Xin Hua, and the farmers’ market of Ming fu.

Hotel proprietress Yumei (left bottom) brings out her friends from all walks of life, to greet our travelers at a tea party in her gorgeous gentrified lobby.

Our happy travelers enjoying Old Town Lijiang shopping time.

Friday, May 15, Ride to the first bend in the powerful Yangtze River as it descends southward from Tibet.  Visit 1000-year old Stone Drum Village (Si Gu), the next stop after Lijiang on the Tea Horse Trail (Like the Silk Trail but for tea).  Continue on the bus towards Shangri La (the real name is Zhongdian, the name “Shangri La”  name is stolen from the James Hilton novel, to make you want to go there) for a short hike with our professional guides, in the Tiger Leaping Gorge, a magnificent crevasse overlooking the Yangtze River, the greatest attraction in the area and the Chinese version of Niagara Falls. Tea ceremony by Yumei He, proprietress of our hotel. You will enjoy this evening.

Terrific guide Li Qun Yue (“Peoples’ Cultural Revolution, she was born in 1967)) and me above the powerful Tiger Leaping Gorge just south of ShangriLa..

Shabbat, May 16,  Lijiang – walking tour of Mu Family Palace, the local royalty.  Enjoy the beautiful Black Dragon Pool Park. Yumei’s master teachers will deliver  classes in Traditional Chinese Medicine and  Qi Jin movement, so entwined in the culture. This is another fantastic shopping spot Saturday night, wandering the Old Town and seeing the night food market, a treat just to look at. Traditional Tibetan musical show of town elders.

Happy 2011 traveler at Black Dragon Pool Park, overlooking Snow Mountain in Lijiang Old Town.

Sunday, May 17, Lijiang –  Tour to another ethnic village of the Yi Tribe, high up on the mountain.

Monday, May 18, Free time in Lijiang old town, flight to Shanghai. Meet your fabulous, knowledgeable and warm guide Liang Pingan, professor of history and Israel Studies at Shanghai University. Acupressure massage for weary foot travelers in  swanky historical  Astor Hotel. Glamorous night cruise with view of the Bund.

Our happy group on night cruise of the Shanghai Bund, 2014.

Tuesday, May 19, Shanghai Hongkew WWII Jewish neighborhood,  which our guide Liang has worked to landmark.  Jewish Museum guided by  Liang, who is docent of the museum  and the possessor of great historical knowledge. Mansions of  19th and 20th century Iraqi Jewish philanthropists whose financial prowess began Shanghai as it is today. Free time near hotel. Acupressure foot massage in swanky  historic hotel, a staple for tired travelers.

Liang on right with our group, 2013, at former home of Jewish philanthropists,”bestowed” on the Chinese government, and now a school for the arts.

Wednesday, May 20, Tour beautiful Yu Gardens, as a beginning of your understanding of the history of feng shui and  the Chinese garden; these gardens are the epitome of landscaping  art for the private garden, with their delicacy, and intimate style that was not bound by the imperial court.   Tour fabulous model silk factory – see the worms weaving silk – and its breathtaking shop.   Traditional and MODERN clothing for the whole family as well as housewares and bedclothes, unprecedented in style and beauty.

Thursday, May 21,   Morning dancing at the Bund – ballroom, tai-chi, ribbon, aerobic  – take your pick. Tour  French Concession. Shopping at the famous Shanghai knockoff market, and flight home.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKING, WRITE TO judyrefuah@gmail.com or call 052 434 6709.  From the US, call  Sun.-Thurs. until 3 pm 847 943 2020.  (I am 8 hours ahead of CST).

For visa requirements, google location of Chinese embassy near you.  See http://www.china-embassy.org/eng/hzqz/zgqz/t84246.htm.

Scroll up for registration or to express interest.  Prices will be up soon. Hope to see you there! It;s the trip of a lifetime.

From the US: 847 943 2020, or 052 434 6709 in Israel – judyrefuah@gmail.com

 Go here for TESTIMONIALS of this once in a lifetime experience: https://judyrefuah.wordpress.com/2013/09/08/a-few-testimonials-judys-trips-to-china/.

 To see photos of past trips, go to judyrefuah.wordpress.com and keep scrolling down; there are at least 5 photo blogs.  Or one nice sample is https://judyrefuah.wordpress.com/2013/07/09/lets-continue-our-tour-photos-of-lijiang/

 Hear a podcast with me about Chinese Medicine and China: http://www.pstein.com/touring-in-china/

 

What is Acupuncture, What are it’s Techniques?

What is Acupuncture?

Reach me at judyrefuah@gmail.com, 052 434 6709, website: chineserefuah.com

Showcasing pre-packaged Western style medication: some are Chinese herbal formulas packaged as pills or capsules ala Western; some contain Western additives.

The Chinese developed a highly complex and sophisticated system of empirical laws based on countless observations of illness and response to treatment, resulting in ground rules to guide a doctor as to how to improve his patient’s condition. Long before there were X-ray machines, CAT scans, and blood tests, traditional healers used noninvasive methods to ascertain personal health, talents, and character. From their understanding came a deep appreciation for the unity of the mind, body, and spirit. For the Oriental diagnostician, the body is the physical manifestation of the soul. Body and soul are one. The body is both a symptom and a symbol for the spirit.

Simply stated, acupuncture is gentle but powerful stimulation of the internal network of both physical AND metaphysical connection between the body’s organs, tendino-muscular network (muscles, ligaments, tendons, tissue), emotional and cognitive response to these and makeup in general. It is understood that all these elements affect the others. This network is stretched like a map on and inside the body.When presented with an ailment, acupuncture practitioners relate to a certain body part not only by its physical function, as in the West, but by the function and inter-relation of that bodily area on the meridian (body latitudinal and longitudinal) map. This is called Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM).

Acupuncture therapy, a shining pearl in Chinese medicine, has spread throughout the world recently, and the world is beginning to see the value of acupuncture which the Chinese have known for thousands of years. Unlike Western medical treatment, acupuncture has marked efficacy, utilizes simple tools and boasts a low instance of adverse side effect.

Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) is the style in which most acupuncturists in the United States and almost all acupuncturists in the People’s Republic of China are currently trained. The fact that TCM acupuncture is, in fact, only one style of acupuncture has been well documented by several writers in recent years.  While a great deal has been written on the practice of TCM acupuncture, other styles from Japan, Korea, Vietnam, or pre-TCM Chinese lineages are only recently being explored by most Western acupuncturists as viable, clinically effective alternatives. Israel is advanced in this way; there are so many brilliant people here practicing many forms of acupuncture and related healing. Most practitioners now also use other modalities such as herbals and manual therapies.  In pursuing my clinic’s pain management program, it is interesting to note how much the philosophy of integrative care has come to be seen as the standard of care – individual techniques (ie: only acupuncture, or only surgery) simply do not have as good an outcome as a synergistic combination of therapies to fully meet the needs of the patient. Some respond very well to traditional needle therapies, some need nutritional or herbal therapy, some need active stretching or rehabilitation, and unfortunately some need surgery.

One technique is called seeking the “ah shi” ( as in “Ah, oy” or “Ah YES!”) point of tenderness or pain in orthopedic or internal pain.  This spot when needled can be effective in reducing pain in a related area of the body -either on the other side, or some macrocosm area (the foot or the ear or the hand or the arm , as representatives of the entire body). In addition, there is the imaging method: If the arm represents the whole body, the elbow area (middle of the arm) can treat abdominal pain, lower back pain or anything in the middle of the body.

There are some who often needle the para-spinal area- Huato Jia Ji points on either side of the spine – the area which corresponds anatomically to the nerves which affect the entire body. Japanese acupuncturists often treat the abdominal area, the source of much blood stagnation which is responsible for disease and pain. Clearly, if these methods practiced on millions of patients  over thousands of years, were not efficacious, they would not have been pursued.

In non-urban China today, modern scientific medicine has not penetrated very deeply. This is owing not only to the lack of personnel and facilities available in the rural districts where care is needed most, but also to the very foreignness of scientific medicine to the majority of the people. One cannot expect a village that lives today very much as it did centuries ago to accept modern science with far-reaching social and economic changes and without educational preparation. The medical systems of the past are still very much alive.

To digress a moment about Chinese herbs, I know from my visits to China and discussing with my friends in semi-rural areas and even in medium sized cities, people are not used to getting antihistamines,  cortisone, and many other drugs.  They ARE used to getting acupuncture and other traditional Chinese physical techniques like tuina or herbal plasters, antibiotics, and  over the counter Chinese herbs which have cortisone, paracetamol  (like Tylenol) and ibuprofen (like Advil) in them, although they do not know the purpose of these things.  They only relate to the Chinese herbs written on the package, and sometimes they are familiar with their uses. Although the Western obsessions with what and what not to eat and how to exercise have not reached China, an awareness of how to care for oneself with simple self-massage, herbs from the grocery store and in one’s garden, and a reliance on TCM  are  built into the culture – and were there long before our recent health craze of the last few decades.

Carrying to market Chinese herbs to be cooked in a clay pot at home; everyone knows how and has the pot, just like we know Tylenol.

In my clinic, I explain to my patients what I am going to do and why. I discuss  exam findings, the points I will use, and what I expect to happen. I am not afraid to recognize the limits of what acupuncture can do and refer for appropriate complimentary care – these can exponentially improve the response to my own care, and the patients see that I have their best interest in mind. As always, good care requires thorough documentation – I always take care to record updated history, findings, treatments, other care, and the patient’s response to treatment.

My friend Qiu Shi practicing tuina for Nitzan’s pre-flight nausea. This guy treats everything, including internal disease and pain, strictly by these methods and he is very accomplished.

Tongue diagnosis: TCM stalwart for checking organ systems’ nature and function

Hear a podcast with me about Chinese Medicine and China: http://www.pstein.com/touring-in-china/

BOUTIQUE KOSHER CHINA TRIP 2014: https://judyrefuah.wordpress.com/2013/11/18/east-or-west-both-are-best-kosher-china-2014/

A Few Testimonials – Judy’s Kosher Trips to China

                Join the happy travelers! Let me show you China the way I love it.

                                              East or West –  Both are Best!

https://judyrefuah.wordpress.com/2013/11/18/east-or-west-both-are-best-kosher-china-2014/

Hear a podcast with me about Chinese Medicine and China: http://www.pstein.com/touring-in-china/

For more info email me at judyrefuah@gmail.com or comment to this blog below.  You can also call me at 052 434 6709 or from the US, 847 943 2020, 8 hours ahead of CST.

SPREAD YOUR WINGS WITH FUN ANTHROPOLOGY – PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD, SHOPPING, CULTURE!

Each year that Judy planned her tours to China I watched as a spectator via her internet site to hear about what I missed.  Finally this year I spent 2 ½ weeks with Judy and company on the most adventurous and educational trip ever.  Our fun packed trip included nature hikes, Jewish heritage tours, museums, observing  farming of rice, fruit trees, corn,  teas, and livestock,  traveling via river boats and bus and private van, partaking in tea/herb healing ceremonies, a silk spinning factory,  eating in vegan Buddhist restaurants and creating our own meals, shopping and more.

Judy’s energizing and calming demeanor aided in a very synchronized and harmonic trip.  We were a small group observing and participating in a culture that is very different than our own. I learned more on this trip about history, human nature, and the Asian culture than any history book or Hollywood movie could offer.  Most of all Judy’s inspiration is contagious, it is offered in love and respect for every one of the participants.  I highly recommend Judy’s tour above and beyond any other.

Blessings for more and more trips in years to come,

Karen Dub, Natuaral Nutritionist and Reflexologist, 054 456 5221, justice4@netvision.net.il

I can’t think of a better introduction to China than a trip with Judy Stein. I enjoyed it so much!   We covered a lot of territory, and had many varied experiences, without feeling rushed, traveling by private van, public bus and subway, motor scooter, riverboat and plane.  The small size of our group and Judy’s excellent network of connections with local guides and other Chinese friends in each town we visited made the trip uniquely personal and enabled us to get a glimpse into the daily lives of Chinese people from Shanghai to Yangshuo and from Lijiang to Beijing.    Another advantage of the small size of our group was that we were able to stay in small, charming hotels with local character (while still very comfortable and upscale).  The trip is designed to meet the needs of people who are shomerei Shabbat and Kashrut, while still letting us experience the local culture and some local cuisine. I would go again if I could!

Anne Dubitzky, Tel Aviv

  MoreTestimonials:

Ten Stars!!!!  I loved the trip and would do it again without a second of hesitation.  The camaraderie, the culture, the insight, the smells, the discoveries and yes the shopping made this one of the best experiences of my life….call me and I will talk your ear off!

Linda Bracha, 052 806 4446, http://www.gogreenpackaging.com 

It’s an intense experience – not for those looking for a relaxing touristy time.  You really get the feel of the country and the people by exploring the markets with local guides, with personal tours of the more famous sites, eating in native restaurants where the chefs and staff have been thoroughly taught the requirement of kashrut, staying in clean homey hotels centrally located so as to allow night walks through the streets and squares, travelling the country on planes, boats, mini busses, vans, scooters and bicycles and of course, by foot. Travelling in a small group  in a very foreign setting brings with it an empowering feeling of self-reliance and creates shared experiences and friendships that last beyond the trip itself. As tour guide, Judy made sure each woman’s particular needs were met, and each one’s special interest was addressed.  She did  a tremendous job of juggling China and its opportunities and limitations with the group’s needs, interests and quirks.  Kol Hakavod!

Judy introduced us to the many varied life-styles and local traditions from up close.  Everywhere we went we talked with people, asked loads of questions, and learned and experienced local traditions and family life; from the professional in the city to the village women in the countryside.

Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.  Wish I could go again!

Debby Zucker, Hebrew Univ. of Jerusalem

 For practically my whole life I wanted to go to China.  Going with Judy met my expectations, as I we wandered and journeyed through cities and country.  Many days we were the only Westerners we saw.  The fun of shopping and eating new cuisines, seeing and meeting new cultures, and probably the best part of all, having a guide like Judy who was flexible and enthusiastic in the itinerary helped us all gain a great appreciation and love for a “hands on” China experience.  I’m thrilled I went and would love to go back!

KarenZivan,M.S.
ZivansInIsrael.blogspot.com, http://www.karenzivan.com

For those of you who are on the fence whether or not to take the trip to China from my own experience I can tell you it was fantastic.  the tours and the tour guides were amazing as well as the things that we did.  I came away feeling like I had filled every possible minute of my days with fun and exciting things as well as very informative. Julie Rutta

My 21 year old daughter and I had a really, really great experience.  We met real people and China and found them very friendly and wonderful people.  I enjoyed the bike ride sightseeing very much.  We learned so many facts about China and her people.  The scenery was truly amazing.  The shopping really was an experience.  We also really enjoyed the group of women who went on the trip. Judy did an amazing job.  She made our trip possible and a real pleasure.  I would go with her again another time.

Diana Ostroff, Hashmomaim

Maggots for Good Health!

The following entry is copied from an email received by by husband Philip, yesterday. Although we see the hand of Gd every day in the miracles of children, good health and many other things, it can often take a very long time, or millenia, for us to see the direct reason, or cause and effect, for things. In this case, it only took 100 years. From Philip:

98 years ago in the spring of 1915 our grandfather/great grandfather Nathan Hecht z”l broke his collar bone during World War I. He had just had his Bar Mitzvah and the most available medical care was at a German field hospital, that was set up in their town of Horodok (the Germans had conquered the town months earlier). In any case the German doctor reset the bone and put his shoulder and upper torso in a plaster cast.

Nathan Hecht as a young man in Chicago, about 7-8 years after the cast.

The spring became summer and the heat and humidity caused Papa Nate to go crazy from  his skin itching under  the cast, it was truly unbearable. Finally the day came to remove the cast, so he returned to the army hospital. The doctors took a saw and began to cut the cast. As the doctor began to peel the cast off, the source of the itching became apparent, Papa’s skin was covered with maggots, http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/maggots?s=t, these are little gross bugs/insects that had eaten his skin. As soon as the cast came off Papa fainted, but he had fully recovered and had no infection.

Above: In some places, critters are even used for food!

Fast forward to yesterday at my office in Ramat Gan, I made the acquaintance of someone who works for a  business growing maggots in a sterile environment to treat patients who have pressure wounds or sores from diabetes. Putting the maggots on these wounds disinfects the wound and accelerates healing. When I heard about the maggots I was immediately reminded of the story of Papa Nate above. I shared the story with all the people present at the meeting. My new acquaintance then stated, “You know, those maggots, probably saved your grandfather’s life by preventing any infection from a wound he must have had beneath the cast.” He said there are many stories of prisoners of war who actually were healed because maggots got in their clothes and covered their wounds!

Me, last year, trying leeches for impacted sinus

To all my children and grandchildren, we may all be reading this e-mail today because of those little maggots that HaShem created, that may have saved Papa Nate’s life. Something else to be grateful for this Rosh HaShanah.

Shana Tov v’ G’mar Chatimah Tovah,

Philip/Aba    (From Judy, see photos below)

Nathan and Jennie Hecht with Philip, Sukkot 1981, Mt. of Olives, Jerusalem, their only trip to Israel.

Below, some good-looking descendants of Nathan Hecht.  At bottom, youngest descendant.

A Natural Remedy for Most Things – GINGER!

                                                  Precious Liquid, Jin Ye

“All living things are born from fluid…..Water is the mother of the Three Sources of Heaven, Earth and Humans.” 

–       Chang Ching Yueh, The Book of Classifications (circa 2^nd century B,C,)

Jin Ye is a term used in Chinese Medicine to describe all the liquids within the body.  Jin Ye protects, nourishes and lubricates, The Jin are the lighter-weight fluids that moisten and nourish all skin and muscles, wile the Ye are the thicker, more viscous fluids of the bones, organs, brain and body orifices.

Fluid is your body’s principal component, accounting for 60% of your weight, on average.  Every system in your body depends on fluid.  It flushes toxins out of vital organs, carries nutrients to your cells, and provides a moist environment for ear, nose and throat issues.

 Sweat, tears, saliva, urine, joint lubricant, spinal fluid, semen and breast milk are some of the normal bodily fluids that comprise Jin Ye.

 When the body’s fluid metabolism is disrupted as happens in daily life!! either by poor circulation (old age, injury) or Qi (weakness, fatigue, injury, overeating), cold (ice cream, freezing water, A/C) or heat (anxiety, anger, greasy junky food), Jin Ye can accumulate and thicken into phlegm.  This process of accumulation itself creates a kind of Chinese-conceptual heat in the body.  There is always  a certain level of  heat (read “inflammation”) going on within the body, and when it gets over a healthy threshold, then it can be seen as “heat” in Chinese medicine. At this stage, it may not yet be symptomatic, but if left untreated, can certainly develop further into full blown clinical symptoms.

The wide-ranging manifestations of phlegm and phlegm fluids are either “substantial” or “non-substantial” in nature. Substantial phlegm and retained fluids can manifest with usual signs that we normally associate with it such as thick mucous and a cough. .Non-substantial or invisible phlegm and retained fluids refer to pathological manifestations such  as nausea,  vomiting, diarrhea, skin rashes, ulcers, insomnia, anxiety, stroke, paralysis, epilepsy, shortness of breath, palpitations, or mania and semi-consciousness, abdominal masses and infertility. Nonetheless, these conditions respond well when treated as substantial phlegm and retained fluids. Those with more severe toxicity may experience headaches, sore muscles and joints, fatigue, lowered immunity, severe insomnia, more allergies and of course, increased phlegm. But remember that Traditional Chinese Medicine takes MANY factors into consideration before a diagnosis is made. A consultation with a qualified practitioner will determine if phlegm is at the root of your condition.

Pickled Ginger being sold in the parking lot outside the Yangshuo vegetable market.

  GINGER ROOT TEA – a home cure “Phlegm-buster”

 Imbalance in the processing of Jin Ye is usually resolved by increasing the circulation of Qi and by improving the digestive function of the (Chinese) Spleen and Stomach, which are the organs responsible for the transportation and transformation of Jin Ye within the body. Ginger Root, (zingiber officinale, in Latin; sheng jiang in Chinese) is zesty and very warming, and is an excellent way to improve poor circulation to all parts of the body and to help with proper fluid metabolism, It is one of the best herbs for improving congestion of the digestion, respiratory system or joint systems, all of which can arise from stagnated Stomach function (remember Jin Ye is transported by Spleen/Stomach!) Include ginger in your diet.  It’s a natural, easily accessed remedy and has been used to fight off infections for centuries. Depending on your preferences you can chew on a raw strip of ginger or consume it in the form of ginger tea.

You can also mix a few drops of ginger essential oil (in a small brown bottle at the health food store) in some olive oil, and rub it on your chest, stomach or joints. 

 

 

 

 

Eating with Knowledge

Famous Traditional Chinese Medicine Dr. He of Baisa, southwestern China, giving instructions on taking healing herbs to a patient in his village clinic.

The underlying philosophy of Taoism is that change and transformation are natural processes which will happen on their own, given the proper environment.

In the West, nutritional information (about protein, fat, minerals, vitamins etc) is obtained in a laboratory by analyzing foods and separating them into their basic ingredients in a test tube, having nothing to do with how they are digested by each person.  In the East, food is described as acting on the body in a certain way (warming, cooling, enriching, dispersing, etc), by observing the energetic action inside each person’s body and the behavior of the body after the food is eaten. Chinese Medicine sees life as a series of warm transformations—The process of digestion is viewed in the same light. Give the body proper food and liquid, a proper environment, and there will be abundant qi and blood, the person will have a good immune system, be energetic, and eliminate without difficulty.

It is not just a matter of eating nourishing healthy food but of eating nourishing healthy food that is right for individual body types at a certain time. Each person’s underlying constitution, including the strength of his or her digestive system, determines what foods are most suitable, and  how the body can use them most efficiently: raw, boiled, lightly cooked, roasted, etc.  Good foods and knowing how to prepare them are within our reach – it’s not about finding esoteric ingredients.  A Chinese medical practitioner can help you with this.

Chinese dietary therapy places strong emphasis on the efficient functioning of the Spleen to extract maximum value from food. The strength of our digestive function and how we feel emotionally are intimately linked. There are several simple but important factors that help to maximize Spleen qi.  Simple cooked grains and cooked seasonal vegetables with a small amount of meat and spices for enjoyment will generally supply a balanced diet for most needs. Then the food we eat will either assist or hinder our daily efforts to maintain health.

Think about your grandparents and your own culture or childhood, how many cooked meals were on the table each day? (Less then we have, I’ll bet.)  Did they have a coffee for breakfast and a sandwich on the go for lunch? Probably not!

Eating refrigerated foods, ice cream and juices are relatively new phenomena and are not naturally suited to our metabolism. I believe it’s better to stick with slow-cooked grains, stir-fried vegetables, and small amounts of meat and bone with root vegetable soups.

Raw foods do have their place in Chinese Medicine; they are generally cleansing and cooling and are suited to those with an excess of ‘heat’ constitution, particularly in summer. In my experience, these people are extremely active, extroverted, and generally male.  (Think of a high-strung, coffee- drinking, athletic  or thin person). Eat raw salads and cold dishes (especially in summer) as part of the meal, but not entirely raw salad meals, as their coldness makes them harder to digest by the naturally warm human digestive system.  The purpose of the Stomach is to mix and warm the foods for digestion.  If the food we supply it with is cold, too spicy or unsuited to the individual, this process is made more difficult.

People who describe their diet as ‘no meat and lots of fruit and vegetables’ often eat a lot of fruit and raw salads but not as many cooked vegetables.  You can try it and eat fruit and salad all day for a few days and examine your stools; if they become irregular (loose or constipation), or if you see undigested food, then your digestion is not working as well as it should be.  This can lead to a pale complexion, tiredness and a weak ‘digestive fire’. My tip is to follow the Asian way here—lots of cooked vegetables (warm), and less fruit (cool)—and follow the seasons. Other symptoms of weak digestion are not being able to eat in the morning;  exhaustion after a big meal; having stool after every meal;  soft and runny stools or stools that vary in this way; fatigue.  Recurrent dental problems and mouth sores can denote Stomach yin deficiency.  All these conditions can be improved by Chinese herbs and a good diet for YOU.

Too much fluid consumed with food dilutes the digestive juices and impairs the digestion. However, too little fluid makes the Stomach dry and unable to ‘cook’ the food. Avoid drinking a big glass of cold water with or after a meal, but sipping a small amount of room temperature or warm tea, or even better, a light soup with a meal is a wonderful way to ensure correct balance is attained. This is why the Chinese like green tea (tiny cups before and during the meal) and clear soups (the last course).

Moderate exercise (walking is best) is beneficial to digestion as it is what humans are designed to do; however, excessive exercise that gets the heart racing can consume qi and blood, so balance here is the key. Be active, look at eastern exercises like Tai Chi, Qi Gong or yoga;  exercise is meant to more about balance and longevity than burning calories, if one is not overweight and maintains good digestion.

Our bodies want to be healthy and if we become unwell, it is a warning that it’s time to choose the right environment for that to happen. Information + motivation + choices = a healthier and happier life. Use what you know!

Reflecting on Beijing in Photos

Hi again from a very hot and dry July in Hashmonaim Israel.  Here is some hot and WET Beijing.   Please pass these blogs to your friends, as I will soon be publishing details of my 4th annual trip – https://judyrefuah.wordpress.com and tell them to keep scrolling down or check the left side bar for all my photos.  I hope you enjoy this blog which includes random information about Chinese herbs, culture, history and current lifestyle.

We had a terrific trip and as usual, wonderful guiding.  Here is Yoyo,  my good friend and very knowledgeable, warm and enthusiastic guide.

Yoyo in the immaculate and huge Beijing subway underground. Fabulous system, very easy to get around, but there are so many young people riding it that sometimes one is almost carried away!

In Tiananmen Square, with Forbidden City across the street behind us. The Forbidden City was the Chinese imperial palace from the Ming Dynasty to the end of the Qing Dynasty. For almost 500 years, it served as the home of emperors and their households, as well as the ceremonial and political center of Chinese government.

Gorgeous (and expensive) vegan food in the Pure Lotus Restaurant. This is a chocolate pie made of glutinous rice. Rose petals and lotus leaf for decoration.

My friend June with Nitzan in the Pearl Market. She strings pearls faster than lightening and is a lovely and sweet person. Reach her at chengxiajun@yahoo.com or booth # 162 to order low-priced pearls of several sizes, styles and colors. Say my name! It may take a week or so to get an email reply.  Prices are amazing and pearls are real. 

Ming outside the Pearl Market, rescuing us from driving rain. She gave us an umbrella and bargained the “black taxi” – rogue taxis charging whatever they want in remote locations or  bad weather – for us. She is the most reliable and best electronics salesperson – reach her at minglove99@gmail.com and mention my name, for lowest priced excellent knockoff and real electronics of every kind. As you can see, there is no one more beautiful or nice.

Workmen doing their constant upkeep of the Great Wall north of Beijing. There is also the issue of people taking pieces of the Wall home.

A very very cloudy day – visibility about 20 meters. You could not wear rain gear as it was so hot and muggy that it was preferable to let the rain fall onto you, than to be enclosed in plastic or nylon. A gorgeous day nonetheless. See below for comparison shot!

This is one magnificent girl. Here is my breakdancing, English-speaking, high-scoring, animal-loving sometimes model friend Namida, 25, whom I met two years ago as my translator in the Chinese Medical clinic.  She is now a certified intern of both western and Chinese Medicine, having graduated after 7 years.  Here she is on a trip to give her my power of attorney at the post office. Our group enjoyed dinner together; for the second time in a row, she ordered American pasta, so you get the idea about the junk food that the Chinese youth just love. For me, the food highlight was some deep-fried,12-inch long chewy mushroom strips. Now THIS is a restaurant to return to, I have been here several times at two branches including one in the Google building. See http://liaofan.com/English/index.html. The meeting with Namida capped off our groups’ getting to know many different types of people, a deeply enjoyable and enlightening part of our trip.

From here, Anne and Karen returned to our beautiful hotel and on, homeward, leaving local exploration of the nightclub garden scene for next time.  Both said, after 17 days, that they regretted not staying another week! Our time together was idyllic.

Nitzan and I remained an extra day for visiting friends. Back onto the subway- Lidongmei texted me her address – now THIS should help us: 百子湾家园B区207号楼三单元（百子湾路一直往东走）.  Of course it did! We had a really great morning before going to the Forbidden City- Lidongmei bussed us to the stop we needed to get on, not leaving us until we got on the train.

Lidongmei in her shiny and beautiful modern red kitchen. I was smitten instantly. She says her mother does all the cooking and therefore she is pictured giving an example of her culinary skills, holding a – what was it? – mango.

Lidongmei’s cute baby Rui En. Nitzan went crazy with his chubbiness.

Rui En and his Grandma, the cook!

 

Lidongmei and her husband at their wedding, displayed prominently in their beautiful living room (below). The apartment is on the 7th floor of a highrise in a complex of highrises housing 7000 families. She has a western toilet (not a squatter) – when I showed surprise, she said “Everyone does, nowadays!”. Thus, in small ways is the chipping away of traditional culture including folk wisdom.

Lunch waiting to be made by Grandma in the beautiful red kitchen that the mistress of the house never uses except for steaming rice.

Next stop: some errands for us.  Lidongmei took us to the Chinese pharmacy.  These establishments have both modern medicine and traditional Chinese medicine – this is standard throughout China.  Everyone knows both systems.  Often traditional herbal formulas are mixed in patented shelf products with anti-inflammatories, paracetamol, or steroids.  Below, getting ready to weigh  the much-sought Reishi mushroom, Ling Zhi in Chinese, otherwise translated as the “marvelous mushroom.”  See http://www.naturalnews.com/021498_reishi_mushrooms.html.  These can be added to soup or made into a decoction with other herbs for wide medicinal benefits, most famously aiding the immune system.  Along with other dried herbs and fruits, tofu skins and a lot of Pu’ar tea, these mushrooms will stoke me for the coming winter. 

On to the supermarket for more food-related herbs – wanting to purchase them in closed packages instead of brown paper, in case anyone at Customs wanted to take them away. Once again, the magnificent Chinese SUPER supermarket :  the entrance showing Chinese herbs, packaged and loose, including plant and animal items, mostly dried.  Some things are unrecognizable to the Western  eye,  like dried tortoise shells, dried frog legs, dried excrement of the flying squirrel.   Raisins, dates, mangos, dried tangerine peel (Chen Pi), a prominent Chinese herb used in formulas because it:

• Regulates Qi, improves transportive function of the spleen, relieves diaphragm – epigastric/abdominal distention, fullness, bloating, belching, nausea, vomiting (promotes movement of qi in general; specifically directing it downward – good for different types of nausea/vomiting).
• Important herb for drying dampness and the transformation of phlegm – coughs with stifling sensation in the chest/diaphragm, and copious viscous sputum (qi-level herb).
• Prevents stagnation – prevents cloying of tonifying herbs which may be prominent in the formula.

This is just one example of the myriad of functions of these plants and other items displayed here for adding to food or tea.  Chinese people frequently carry bottles with herbs floating in them, replenishing them with hot water during the day, transforming regular water into something healing according to their ailments (stomach distention, high blood pressure, migraines), the time of year (warming during the winter, cooling in summer), or their stage of life (pregnant, postpartum, old age). They just know what to buy, or follow the instruction of the doctor.

Typical display in village or urban marketplace (not supermarket) of commonly purchased Chinese herbs. The round balls in foreground are used for lowering blood pressure, cholesterol and blood sugar , and are very sweet when you slice off any part of it (even just the shell) and soak in hot water for tea. Add grated ginger, and you are in heaven. You can come to my house to try it.

On to the seaweed department, then fish tanks, lobster and crab tanks including eels, turtles, frogs, freshly cut meat, frozen meat and all of the above, freshly packaged tantalizing take-home dinners ready to steam or stir-fry – see below.

One of my familiy’s favorite foods, mung beans, here in a mountain modeled by Lidongmei and Nitzan. My latest craze is sprouting them. Soak overnight, then spread in a strainer or on a towel, sprinkling with water for a day or two, and they will have little sprouts. Put them in a jar and munch or add to salad, or cook them, because they are now boosted nutritionally. (http://www.sprouts-as-medicine.com/mung-bean-sprouts.html for only one discussion of the benefits).

I chose this moving picture to demonstrate my frenzy at the Chinese supermarket. Here I am at the cashier, having forgotten to weigh (upstairs and a mile away) several herbs I intended to purchase. Trying to move quickly through the basement, a marvelous sort of Target-like establishment, Nitzan purchased 2 perfect  dresses, and while she tried them on (XXL and she is not 14 yet – she is one of the smallest in her 9th grade class but apparently the Asian women are smaller yet), Lidongmei went to choose some baby clothes. After packing up my multiple purchases including multi-colored stainless steel kitchen work bowls, I finally heard Nitzan’s plea reminding me that we were……… on our way for an afternoon of touring (by subway and foot) to the Forbidden City. Laughing hysterically that we had become Chinese – carrying our dried mushrooms, pharmaceutical herbs, clothing and housewares in a wisely- brought Rami Levy shopping bag), we departed our great hostess and moved on. Guess who did most of the shlepping, and with a smile? My daughter who respects her mother.

Just to convince you that probably more people on this planet use umbrellas for purposes other than rain protection. Entrance to Forbidden City.

Cute model showing 6-century-old paving throughout the Forbidden City. These stones were specially baked in Suzhou, near Shanghai. Most of the paving is original.

Pu Yi, the child king who was the subject of the  1987 movie “The Last Emperor.” Puyi succeeded to the Manchu throne at the age of three, when his uncle, the Guangxu emperor, died on November 14, 1908. He reigned under a regency for three years, and then on February 12, 1912, in response to the Republican Revolution of the previous year, he was forced to abdicate, ending the 267-year Qing rule of China and the 2,000-year-old imperial system!  He was permitted to continue living in the palace in Beijing.   This is a fascinating story: http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/482238/Puyi. 

At the end of World War II , Pu yi was taken prisoner by the Russians (August 1945) and returned to China for trial as a war criminal in 1950. He was pardoned in 1959 and went again to live in Beijing, where he first worked in the mechanical repair shop of a botanical garden and later became a researcher.  It is all documented together with a lot of other stuff in the exhibits.  I need to go back a few more times and explore the alleyways where the storage rooms and dormitories of the staff were located.  Very cool.

My good friend Qiu Shi trying to solve Nitzan’s tummy problems brought on by heat and too much running around. He is an expert tuina Chinese physiotherapist masseur and can solve all manners of internal problems, not just orthopedic. How I wish he were nearby . What a fine person and loyal friend! If anyone seeing this can help advise me on getting him a visa to any Western country (including Israel) where his services will be well put to use, please contact me.

Waiting for our flight home, new friends Junmei (Dodo) and her husband came to visit us. They are striking out very successfully on their own as all-in-one travel agents and tour operators all over China. Their value-added, in addition to the fact that I totally trust them with any arrangements, is that they know all the kosher and Shabbat stuff and can arrange anything anywhere in this capacity. Dodo told me half her refrigerator is stocked with kosher foods that she keeps for when she needs them. She and her husband were introduced by Shai Bar Ilan, the kosher Israeli tour operator, for whom they worked for many years. Thank you to the Kuchars for the introduction. These young people are energetic, knowledgeable and charming. (zdoudou2001@gmail.com). Dodo can also get your internal flights on the same regular airlines within China much cheaper than from out of the country.

Austin Bai, my longtime correspondent and enterprising taxi driver, dropping me off in his spotless car, at the airport. (austinbai18@gmail.com – use my name – he is attached at the hip to his cell phone and answers immediately.) You have just got to hear him giggle!

Anyone want to try on one of these costumes to be photographed?

This concludes my photo blog of Judy’s 3rd tip to China.  There may be other postings on specific topics, but I hope you enjoyed this one. Til the next time!

 

 

 

 

 

 

4 EASY RECIPES FOR SUMMER

Well, I realize that last time my recipes we complicated, and so here is compensation!  These are  great all year round, but especially in summer.

EASY Quinoa Salad, the best

Cook quinoa plain, it takes only a few minutes, check there is enough water.  sometimes i like to use the red quinoa or the mixed.

Add in raw:

Any dried fruit including dried chopped apricot, figs or cranberry

Any chopped onion, white, red or scallion, or 2 kinds

Any crunchy veg like carrot or pepper

Any chopped nut – hazelnut, cashew, almond, pecan, walnut

Can add chopped parsley  or any herb you like

Lemon juice,  olive oil, salt, pepper

Golda’s Pickled Vegetables – I usually double-triple this recipe in a large pot – takes a few minutes and lasts weeks in frig if they don’t eat it.

4-6 ripple-or regular thickly sliced carrots

3-4 red and/or yellow peppers

1 large cauliflower in florets

Boil together: 3 cups water

1 cup vinegar

1 T salt

10 cloves peeled garlic

When water, etc. boils, add vegetables, cook covered on LOW for 7 minutes.  Turn off flame, let it cool in uncovered pot.  Refrigerate covered.

Polenta – easier than last time!Now try that polenta from my previous blog https://judyrefuah.wordpress.com/2013/07/09/recipes-for-carbohydrate-lovers/.  Just put it in the oven after it is set, until it gets a bit crispy on top.  Serve with a salad and some chumus or techina.

Fruit and Nut Balls

1/2 cup whole or any (preferably shelled) almonds

Heaping 1/2 cup walnuts

Whir til smallest grind  in magimimix

Add:  1 cup dried apricots (dont have to cut up)

1 cup of pitted dates of 1/2 bar of the pitted “date brick”

Whir it again for about 2 minutes til it becomes ONE and masses in a lump.

Make balls and roll (small, bigger than a cherry)  in cococut, or powdered sugar/cocoa combo.

Freeze it forever and eat it frozen.

Let’s Continue our Tour….Photos of Lijiang

Karen and Nitzan at bridge outside our hotel.

Hi again!

Passing through Kunming (capital of Yunnan Province, a small city with 6 1/2 million people!) was an adventure for me more than for my travelers.  The busy, medium sized airport I had been through many times before was no longer to be seen.  I did not know if I was in a completely different location or if the old airport was now being used as a shed!  Instead, we landed in a magnificent and at least mile-long international, cosmopolitan airport.  There are now flights to all of Asia from here.

Bored Israeli basketballer awaits connecting flight at Kunming Int’l. Airport

Walked fast for 15 minutes and saw a lot of this!

A most beautiful woman greeted us in Lijiang, southwest China north of Vietnam and Laos, and took us out to the same battered very-mini van I have had before.  It would have been way too small for us even if we had not had 10 suitcases between us and even if there had not been a huge almost-live fish and a large packed musical instrument? or set of fishing gear  the size of a trombone in the trunk.  After removing the fish, sending the beautiful woman and another guy to get home on their own and rearranging the luggage, all 6 of us plus the driver fit in.  It was then that the fish was returned to the trunk atop our luggage. Amazing and amusing! The battered one lane highway from the airport through the industrial area to town was likewise REPLACED with a gorgeous spanking new 4-6 lane highway with new street lamps, signs, the whole works.  This since 12 months ago.

Our friendly porter arrived (seen below) with his wagon-bike, seeing as how the streets of Old Town Lijiang are bumpy and stone and we would have had to bump our bags along.  He required backup (as every time) and called a friend with a similar wagon.

Meanwhile we adjusted to the different scenery here and bought some produce for the next day.  The bananas in China are amazing and I believe my previous post showed the magnificent mangosteen!

Arriving at the Zen Garden Hotel, my friend He Yumei, proprietress of 2 gorgeous hotels and wonderful person, greeted us with her former Kunming University English professor whom she had not seen for 20 years.  The woman was touring Lijiang and they met serendipitously, and she and her retiree friends remained an extra day in town in order to make our acquaintance, a memorable few moments of socializing.  The rest of our visit at the Zen Garden was likewise cordial and wonderful.

Yumei (bottom left) and her friends. The professor is standing above me.

Traditional Naxi harp waking us for the day in hotel courtyard below our rooms. Yumei knows I love this and we had it twice during our visit. It is part of her tradition-laden hospitality.

Our guide Chen Jing You (Adam)  is called Xiao Chen by his friends (he is the youngest Chen in his family; little= xiao).  Together we toured  minority Naxi village YuHu or Rock Village, named for Dr. Joseph Rock, the Austrian-American botanist and anthropologist, and in his house had a view of life decades ago. In nearby Baisa, we viewed a fascinating made-for-tourists but real silk embroidery workshop featuring Naxi embroidery of traditional themes as well as reproductions of famous impressionist art.  While we had been shown at the Shanghai silk factory that each strong and  very fine silken thread breaks down to many threads, the chief designer and embroiderer here demonstrated the number to be 180!! I can honestly say the single thread was hard to see, finer than spider web thread. I saved myself from buying a Monet-like embroidered “painting” for several hundred dollars. Instead I took a photo of this charming workshop guide with Nitzan:

Yuhu Buddhist monastery, attached to monastery school for mostly orphans. It is a big privilege to be allowed to study as a monk. We met several monks in their 20’s. Multi-colored flags like those seen here abound near Buddhist holy places.

Paparazzi photographing us while we folk-danced with the natives in the Lijiang Old Town square.

Grandfather and cute baby who sold us ceramic Chinese spoons that Philip likes to eat his soup with.

Cute baby papoose-style.

This one being carried by grandmother in traditional dress.

Beautiful meadow with mooing cows, baby calves, horses and mountains afar. Another hike with Xiao Chen.

Below: Xiao Chen, dimpled, adorable, 29 and available, on the left, with Karen, me and Anne overlooking a great view and a blue sky. 3 grandmothers and of course we had to ask if he wants to get married. He enjoys his “freedom.”

Just as south central China has an abundance of rain,  south western China often has drought, and this was a year for it.

Gorgeous lake and girl – Ophira at Black Dragon Lagoon, Lijiang, Sept. 2011. Not a drop of water in it now.  No photo as I was there on Shabbat. Yumei’s architect and engineer husband Roman says that some years the lake is dry not because of drought – but because negligent builders do not secure nearby foundations, and thus the land seeps up the water that should remain in the lake. This is the kind of thing you read about vis a vis China’s rapid overdevelopment. Scenic Yulong Xueshan – Snow Mountain – rising in background.

Water line at this scenic Lahshi lake outside Lijiang should be to the stop of the stilts supporting the bridge.

Local boy in tiny village outside Lijiang placing incense in monastery courtyard, to honor his ancestors in prayer. We ventured on this outing alone!

Plastic prayer flags hanging in abundance outside monastery.

Chatting with giggles and no other language with local visitors to the monastery. The guy in yellow is a young monk.

Doing the 4-sided monastery courtyard circuit touching brass good luck drums. So far they have rubbed off on us BH. (Touching them does not show belief in or praise to Buddha). You will find huge brass knobs for the same purpose covering the surface of all traditional large doors and gates to dwellings and palaces. People touch them for good luck as they enter like we touch the mezuzah.

Yumei taught us about tea while performing a private tea ceremony for us.  We had been drinking (and digesting very well) Yunnan Pu’er tea from 1998, very high quality, as part of her standard hotel hospitality.  Tea is aged like wine, pressed and savored.  I will describe this in another blog.  It was delicious, suffice to say.  She also took us on a tour of the tea museum in the village of Suhe, where we learned that there was a thousand year old Tea Horse Road much like the Silk Road, winding through southern Yunnan in China to Tibet and India and north to Sichuan. People, not only horses, carried this prized tea, up to 90 kg., more than their body weight.  I have learned a valuable lesson and will be enjoying fine quality green and black Pu’er tea for years to come.

Gorgeous and charming young Naxi woman (we could not take our eyes off her) performing Suhe tea ceremony. We drank til we burst!

Yumei saw how much I loved the tea ceremony, and I was so moved when she presented me with a beautiful red porcelain yin-yang pattern tea set with all the utensils for serving – in addition to a larger blue and white porcelain set “for the large family”.

Above: Decorative shelves in Zen Garden Lion Hill, Yumei’s mountaintop hotel, holding stacked wheels of Yunnan Pu’er tea and other very aesthetic tea-serving paraphernalia.

Yumei and her friend, the great granddaughter of Prince Mu, the ruler of Lijiang and builder of Mu Family Mansion which was recently restored. I wish wish wish I had taken the photo of his photo, and could not find one on the internet. This woman looks exactly like her ancestor!! Very good-looking, noble face and high cheekbones. Here they are waving goodbye to us until next time!

Anne and I at Mu Family Mansion.

All mansions and palaces are surrounded by beautiful gardens, and here is the Mu Family gardens.

In summary:

Sunset view from veranda outside our door, Zen Garden Wuji Yard, Lijiang.

 

We didn’t eat it, but the street food sure looked fantastic!

Typical view in the Old Town. The new town is sprawlingly huge, but it was not there 20 years ago, say my local friends who all grew up in the Old Town.

Mao greeting the people in New Town.

 

Goodbye to Beautiful Lijiang!

For my hotel, see:http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g303783-d569950-Reviews-Zen_Garden_Hotel_Wuyi_Yard-Lijiang_Yunnan.htmlFor the hilltop hotel, see:http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g303783-d1389046-Reviews-Zen_Garden_Hotel_Lion_Mountain_Yard-Lijiang_Yunnan.html.